Sinh Sinh’s seafood tanks are the best in the city, and you can even indulge at one or two in the morning. Don’t let the briny smell deter you: it’s the glorious byproduct of one tank full of huge geoduck clams (the only thing here that gets consistently overcooked) and another of Maine lobster; sweet shrimp here (spectacular), and live soft-shell crabs there. The Vietnamese side of the menu isn’t much better than average—skip it in favor of the barbecue (pork can sell out early in the night), or better yet, the seafood tanks. Sinh Sinh’s responsible for what must be Houston’s best preparation of soft shell crab, as well as great sizzling oysters, salt crusted shrimp, and fish maw soup.

True, the bright, modern décor has all the class of shoddy plastic surgery. The ceiling is painted a textured blue to look like clouds. Even more bizarre is the temperature-controlled wine-storage area amidst the scramble of tables and hanging roasted ducks. Château Margaux? Silver Oak? With shellfish?

Service is weird too, when it’s not just plain rude or pushy; if you go down the path of live seafood—as you should—you’ll be encouraged to spend your month’s salary in one go. (Live seafood is pricey; Dungeness crab, for instance is $33.95 per pound. Always ask for a cost estimate when ordering.)