Fogo de Chão is emulated at the smaller, locally owned Nelore in every possible fashion, from the unbelievably appealing cheesy popovers that start the meal to the extensive salad bar and the overwhelming array of meats shaved by roaming waiters dressed as gauchos. But Nelore is cheaper than Fogo, and most importantly, the consistency of the meat is better.

Rump roast is our favorite, served in thin, tender slices and cooked medium-rare with a slightly charred outer crust. Garlic beef, also a rump cut, comes close in its moist and juicy decadence, but adds a welcome and unmistakable wave of garlicky potency. No need to waste space on sausage; it’s nothing special. Bacon-wrapped filet too often arrives dry and overcooked, but most other cuts—like top and bottom sirloin, flank steak, lamb, and more—sing with flavor and juice. We can’t resist the tiny chicken hearts, which we pop like pills. Since you’re already paying for the whole shebang, you may as well try it all. The keys to success here are pace and resisting most of the salad bar—although the not-very-filling hearts of palm are a welcome treat.

The wine list has several excellent bottles from South America and Spain, and even a few obscure, culty Italians. Try finding that at a nationwide chain.