In the leafy suburbs near Lakeline Mall, in a small, unlikely strip mall, Noble Pig serves up one of the finest lunches in Texas. Here, meat is cured, smoked, stuffed, and pulled by hand; vegetables are pickled and mustard is mustarded in house, and everything comes on pillowy white or wheat bread baked on the premises. The shop’s a happy reconstruction of early-20th-century Americana: blue-and-white-tiled floors, chalkboards, wood furnishings, and an almost monastic minimalism. At breakfast, oatmeal, Nutella French toast, and eggy sandwiches abound; at lunch, choices are harder to make. A Rueben-esque smoked-duck pastrami is unbelievable, with a nibbling kiss from creamy Russian dressing and rye pickles. Grilled chorizo is juicy, with a lovely crescendo of heat. The Noble Pig sandwich brims with succulent pulled pork and piquant ham, and “bacon” is too ordinary a word for the lightly smoked, bellyish delicacy here.

Everything is handled with great deftness: breads are grilled to an ideal crispy-fluffy, with substantial, flavorful crusts. Oysters have that beautiful briny pop inside their fried coating. Vegetarian sandwiches might include a roasted tomato in the summer and an ambrosial cauliflower-cheese in the winter. Sign up for occasional BYO dinner notices, and don’t forget to raid the case filled with jars of pudding, pickles, mustard, and slaw; loaves to go; and piles of sausages. Hello, birthday gifts.