Steiner Ranch is a suburb of lush golf courses, Lake Travis sunsets, and squeaky-clean McMansions—and its own multimillion-dollar steakhouse. This magnificent three-story stone-and-glass structure is riddled with the artifacts of the Steiner family’s rodeo days. From just about any table—whether on the patio with fire pits or in the dimly lit, elegant main room—there’s a gorgeous view of the lake and verdant hills. Fittingly, the menu is as safe as any gated community. Appetizers are the usual upscale-Texas cuisine: passé sesame-crusted seared ahi tuna in sweet peanut sauce, fussy queso, and artichoke fondue. “Buffalo” quail legs is enjoyable, with a subtly sweet barbecue flavor, but a too-mild Gorgonzola sauce. The kitchen tends to serve its Prime steaks a bit under temperature and withholds seasoning, as if to allow diners to sample it first and then send it back for more salting and cooking. Surprisingly, there are some good deals here, like a 12-ounce ribeye priced in the twenties. Chicken-fried elk is rather tough, as expected. There are some flavorful sides, though, like smoky asparagus with roasted red peppers; and earthy “Burgundy mushrooms.”

The wine list is pretty typical—big, blowsy domestics; beefy Italians; and stately Bordeaux. And if you live in the area, you might could saddle up your golfcart and be here in time for sunset.