You might wonder how a glitzy steakhouse chain landed among our top places to eat—many of our favorite steaks these days are made in modern, farm-to-table-aiming kitchens that are nowhere near as extravagantly priced as Perry’s. And while the steaks here are quite convincing, we’ll cut to the chase: Pork Chop. Even when your server holds up seven fingers indicating its thickness, it does not prepare you for the mammoth hunk of swine that appears (and is deftly carved) tableside. It is a revelation; a succulent symphony sung by the sweet caramelization of pork, right down to the crisp “eyelash” where the juices accumulated during its four-day smoke.

Otherwise, the selection is a little Love-Boat-Meets-Dynasty: gigantic shrimp cocktails, jumbo lump crab cakes, and turtle soup. As usual, the latter is done little justice (it tastes alarmingly like canned chili). Steaks are expertly cooked, with a good crust and all the greatness of a month-long dry aging. Sides don’t measure up: runny potatoes au gratin, overbroiled crabmeat atop asparagus, and so on.

Provided you’re on someone else’s expense account, there is something admittedly fun about this over-the-top show. Each location varies slightly, but they all feature a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired décor and Vegas carpeting. If you pad around the wine list, you might even find some character-driven bottles worth the (sizeable) dent in your wallet.