The Texas Cuban’s black-and-red food trailer now qualifies as old guard, as food carts go. It’s successfully stayed put on its South Lamar slope for a couple of years, enjoying a symbiotic relationship with pastry pros La Boîte. In fact, the pressed sandwiches here take a while (we’ve clocked them at as much as 30 minutes at peak hours), so we like to wander over there for a three-pack of macarons to enjoy afterward.

The cubano’s origins are surrounded by some conjecture, but it was most certainly created in the immigrant communities of Florida, and includes—at bare minimum—shaved ham, roasted pork, Swiss cheese, pickles, and mustard (here, spicy is recommended, but there’s also yellow mustard, as well as mayonnaise). Cuban bread is a sort of oiled-up flatter baguette, smooth on top and crunching its protests when squeezed; Texas Cuban’s is on target and with a whisper of garlic. The fillings are not as strongly porky as they are in Miami’s best cubano joints, nor is the Swiss quite funky enough, but it’s a really good sandwich. We’re more into the medianoche, a cubano on eggy challah, although oversized for this genre. Pork is not a necessary order here: there’s Boar’s Head sliced chicken breast (fine), and the trailer makes one of the most delicious pressed veggie sandwiches south of Whole Foods.