Perla’s oak-shaded patio, with its little white lights and view of the street action, is ideal on warm days and nights. The interior décor is striking and fun, like you’re in the artfully distressed summer home of some edgy designer, with bright yellow booths, and electric-blue sailfish mounted on shore grass-colored walls. The unpainted cement floor and sterile white tiles cutely suggest that the restaurant could be hosed down nightly, like any common fish market.

Come as a group of four or more and share the pricey “Grande Platter,” a two-tiered carousel from the raw bar that changes frequently, and includes a dozen from a diverse list of oysters, and, one time, Littleneck clams and toothsome whelks served in their respective shells with spicy aïoli. A variety of ceviches and seafood salads are also scattered about. Hot dishes are less consistent, but fine. Fish and tender hanger steak are usually expertly cooked, but anything fried comes greasy—on that note, avoid fried seafood at brunch (and an ill-conceived French toast with a rapidly melting dollop of coconut sorbet on top). Wood-grilled vegetables are always a good bet, as are cold haricots verts with anchovy vinaigrette.

Coastal-themed cocktails are interesting, but their execution varies depending on the bartender. The wine list is a minefield for the inexperienced, but there are some seafood-friendly whites and rosés; the beer selection’s just right for a tower of tasty sea bounty.