The swooping cursive of Perla‘s baby-blue neon sign assures a confident whimsy within, where diners feel as though they were in the artfully distressed summer home of some edgy designer. In the South Congress space previously occupied by the ill-fated Mars, bright yellow booths boast campy, oversized buttons, while electric-blue sailfish are mounted on woven walls the color of Cape Cod shore grass. The unpainted cement floor and sterile white tiles suggest a cheeky effort to make Perla’s look like it could be hosed down nightly, like any common fish market. If it’s absolutely delightful inside, the expansive, oak-shaded patio, in good weather, has the stimulating, anti-depressant qualities of Barton Springs or an Alamo Drafthouse singalong.

Come as a group of four or more, if only to share the pricey “Grande Platter,” a two-tiered carousel from the raw bar that changes frequently, and includes a dozen from a diverse list of oysters, shucked expertly and unsullied by mignonette, which comes on the side. There may also be Littleneck clams and toothsome whelks, served in their respective shells with spicy aïoli; a refreshing salad of lobster, tarragon, and shallot, and another of sweet crab; or an addictively citrusy, spicy salmon tartar.

The raw bar is the zenith of performance here, though. Hot dishes are less consistent. Striped bass has been seared to an ideal medium-rare with crisp skin, but squid can be great or greasy, depending on the day. Hanger steak has been tender and cooked precisely to temperature, yet frites can come cold and underseasoned. There is an overwhelming choice of sides; while shells and cheese are more béchâmel-creamy than sharp and memorable, grilled vegetables are a revelation, as are cold haricots verts in anchovy vinaigrette. Or order from an array of seafood-centric small plates (thankfully not called “tapas”), such as nicely charred octopus that wavers between chewy and slimy, and a good, lumpy crab cake.

Seasonal cocktails are usually well made and interesting, but some have come watered down—it may depend on the bartender. An underachieving wine list completely misses the point, with loads of big, soft reds and few seafood-worthy whites. Beer is better, with some local drafts and a decent selection by bottle. But it’s really about the raw fish, and this sublime slice of South Congress real estate.

There is nothing here mentioned about Perla's desserts and for me they were the best part of that menu, creative and delicious.

Gabby - 2009-09-18 12:08

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