Hog Island’s chalkboard menu, set against exposed-brick walls, contains a lot of items, as well as a tricky heading that might lead patrons to think the “Old Italian” is a hot sub. Because, you know, it’s listed under “Hot Stuff.” But—surprise!—the sandwich is actually cold as can be. According to the staff, who don’t seem to make any sort of move to warn people who order one, even though they acknowledge this is a persistent problem, “Hot Stuff” does not refer to temperature, but popularity. Yet after tasting this sandwich, we can’t really understand where that popularity comes from. It’s nothing more than Boar’s Head meat served on a gummy cold roll, dressed with limp lettuce, plain balsamic vinegar, and a too-vigorous shake of oregano. Lesson: for Italian subs, go to Home Slice or Delaware. This place is tops for one thing and one thing only: the Philly cheesesteak.

Unlike Cheez Whiz, a classic choice in Philly, the American cheese on Hog Island’s steak is practically invisible but can certainly be tasted, a runny dairy whisper. The generous use of onions—both as filling and as seasoning/moisturizer for the beef during cooking—and copious use of salt make this a standout cheesesteak; the bun improves vastly with toasting. On that note, we highly recommend adding cherry peppers…if you like hot stuff.