Tèo is proof that, if you pare down and focus, you can do something extremely well; in this case, gelato. (Even the espresso’s quite good.) It’s simple, but pleasant, like a café ought to be; the outside patio even sports a lovely fireplace.

Tèo was once called Babbo’s, but in 2004, lawyers for the obese, megalomaniacal TV chef Mario Batali sent a cease-and-desist letter, claiming that Batali’s overrated New York restaurant, Babbo, entitled him to nationwide ownership of the Italian word for “dad.” Although it would never have held up in court, they changed the name.

If standing before the gelato case fills you with giddy indecision (as it does us), Tèo’s friendly staff is happy to let you sample the wares. Fruit flavors abound, like lush strawberry, or deep, dark, red-berry-flavored “Fruits of the Forest” (a literal translation of the Italian frutti di bosco). In early summer, Fredericksburg peaches lend their essence to a gelato enviable to even Italians. Nutella’s intensely creamy and luxurious, and a Cap’n Crunch gelato (New York’s Milk Bar, anyone?) is sheer genius, all salty-corny in that unmistakable Crunchy way. With all these delicious choices, it’s impossible to make a decision. Happily, Téo will pack several different flavors in your cup, so you won’t have to.