Serious Pie looks like an upscale brewpub, which we think is exactly what it should look like. The oblong pies in question, which are as serious as a heart attack (sorry, we couldn’t resist), are baked in a stone oven that’s fired by applewood. The crust is chewier and more reminiscent of rustic bread than what you’ll find at other Italian-style pizza places around town, but it’s also crispier, with less char. All in all, this is a very toothsome crust with more substance than you get from the competing limp-pie genre. Seasonal vegetables like chanterelles, Yukon gold potatoes, and squash provide some interesting toppings, but it’s the pizzas that are consistently the best are guanciale; arugula and soft egg; and Penn Cove clams, pancetta, and lemon. The latter is like a terrific bowl of clam chowder, except that instead of some sad heel of bread, you have an entire pizza for dipping.

You can buy a bottle of wine or six pack with a to-go order, which is a nice touch and makes Serious Pie feel more like a neighborhood joint than just a Tom Douglas cash cow. Conversely, the ridiculous mark-ups on the wine list make you feel like you’re in a big, overpriced restaurant.