Flying Squirrel combines the obsession with fancy toppings with the quest to create a classic New York pie, and the results shame the overpriced Neapolitan pizzas.

The standard tomato and mozzarella pie has an excellent ratio of sauce, cheese, char, oil, and bubbles in the dough. Flying Squirrel sources from local legends (cured meats from Salumi and Zoë’s) and local purveyors (free-range eggs and organic greens), and the toppings really do stand out.

Combinations may look overly ambitious in print, but they make perfect sense on the pie—nothing’s done simply for novelty’s sake. The #8—free-range egg, organic arugula, fresh mozzarella, parmesan, and red onion—is one of our favorites, as is the #5, a wonderfully salty and citrusy combination of garlic-roasted pulled pork, cilantro, red onion, cotija cheese, and fresh lime. Flying Squirrel’s owner loves cassette mix-tapes, and music influences some of the pizza specials (like the ever-popular “Herb Alpert,” with red sauce, mozzarella, Salumi’s oregano salami, roasted garlic, and fresh basil).

The restaurant is nicer than a typical pizzeria—there’s some funky artwork on the walls and candles flicker at night—but less interesting than some of the gourmet pizza spots within city limits. Early diners will share the space with lots of young families, but everyone seems to coexist peacefully.