First, the face-palm aspect of Delancey: at this writing, weekend waits for tables were exceeding two hours. Two-hour waits. For pizza. That thing you can get in less than two minutes in New York, the city with the street this restaurant was named after.

Okay, moving on. Delancey makes a pretty good fancy wood-fired pie. Although the dough could use more salt and more fermentation flavor, it’s chewy and airy. (Char is variable, but most pies come out with a fair bit of it.) A flavorful and bright tomato sauce pulls everything together. Toppings, although a bit sparsely spread, are fresh and occasionally inventive (clams with crème fraîche, for example).

Starters are hit or miss; salads are often underseasoned. Skipping the apps, however, will leave room for mildly precious but uniformly excellent desserts like a bittersweet chocolate chip cookie with gray sea salt. The wine list isn’t extensive, but it’s solid—and interesting, with bottles like an Oregon Grüner Veltliner.

The interior is simple and sweet: with its blackboard with nightly specials, cool vintage light fixtures, and mix-matched chairs, Delancey is a perfect fit for Ballard. That said, with a noisy, hungry crowd eyeing your table, Delancey isn’t yet the relaxing neighborhood spot it aspires to be.