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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Burgers, Sandwiches, American
Counter service

Mon–Sat 11:00am–9:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC

North Central
2114 NW Military Hwy.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 341-8866
Lucky Burger
Lucky’s down on his; spend your burger bucks elsewhere

When Lucky Burger first opened, the love child of the manager of a very fancy restaurant downtown, it boasted good wines, respectable salads, and flatscreen TV monitors frequently tuned to the Food Channel. Oh, and the burgers were a cut above. Enter new owners. Alas.

The place is showing signs of wear, the monitors now flash game shows, and the “Lucky Sauce” that once enlivened the burgers now banishes all memory of the original jazzed-up mayo. To be fair, the burgers (previously Angus, now chuck) are still decent, and though the patties don’t have that desirable hand-formed look, they are at least not cooked to within an inch, and the other garnishes are fresh. True, the bun collapses like a crumpled napkin. The fries, almost suspiciously crisp, are actually not bad, however; snappy beats listless and greasy any day. Yet the full but well-used ketchup dispenser is cause for concern; surely the original product wasn’t the current contents.

And the once-proud milkshakes, still touting Blue Bell ice cream, are an aerosol cream-capped and cherry-profaned travesty. (They were admittedly presented just this way originally.) The chocolate rendition tastes (and looks) as though Hershey’s syrup had been added. Yes, a too-thick version can be initially a little frustrating, but the too-thin has no redeeming virtues; with time it will only get thinner.

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