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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
6.5
8.0
$45
Southwestern
Casual restaurant

Hours
Sun–Thu 7:30am–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 7:30am–11:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining, Wi-Fi
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.zunigrill.com

Downtown
223 Losoya
San Antonio, TX
(210) 227-0864
Zuni Grill
Southwestern fare under towering cypresses: it’s almost okay

Sunlight shafts through giant cypresses, mariachi music erupts nearby, there’s a light breeze (and only a few annoying pigeons), the tourists stream by looking blissful, you have a margarita close at hand…it’s the River Walk in early autumn. Quick, bottle it!

Zuni has one of the best locations on the waterway, and if those ‘ritas were a little better, one would be encouraged to linger with the 22-ounce version. Sadly, the “Rio Margarita” with Partida Silver, agave nectar, and fresh lime juice may arrive way too sweet for serious ‘ritaholics.

Consider asking for a lighter hand with cheese, too. The stringy stuff is superfluous (and just plain annoying) atop the otherwise creditable “Shiner Bock Black Bean Soup,” and it forms a molten carapace that begs to be scraped away from the “Blue Corn Enchiladas,” bedded alongside alarmingly orange rice and more black beans, the apparent emblem of all things Southwestern. The enchiladas, stuffed with smoked chicken, are quite good once the excavation has occurred; they also don’t need the blob of sour cream or the scoop of aging guacamole (which can be perked up with some of the spunky salsa).

Zuni has one of the river’s few breakfast menus, and it’s not bad (no black beans). Get there early.

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