When Andrew Weissman’s late, lamented Le Rêve was still functioning downtown, Weissman could keep an eye on Sip, the nearby coffee shop he established with family members in part to satisfy a serious coffee obsession. The one really good aspect of a recent investigation was a white chocolate cranberry cookie. It’s clear he still needs to make an occasional visit.

We can start with a totally wimpy-watery Americano. Two-thirds of it got left in the cup. A soup of the day—a basic Italian wedding, not that it matters much—was served barely warm. And a well-pressed panino of pastrami with Swiss and chopped onions was ruined by sinus-searing amounts of grainy, Dijon-style mustard. Other panini that have been fine in the past include turkey with artichoke parmesan spread and baby spinach and goat cheese with roasted peppers, avocado, cucumber, and sprouts. The bread is good enough to get the job done, no more, no less.

Salads such as pesto pasta and Niçoise and an assortment of pastries round out offerings, augmented at breakfast with an especially good (usually) croissant with scrambled egg, Black Forest ham, and aged cheddar, a bagel with cream cheese, and fruit and yogurt cups. Take a seat at the street-facing counter and watch downtown denizens parade past.