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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
7.0
6.5
$20
Vietnamese
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Fri 11:00am–8:30pm
Sat 11:00am–4:00pm

Features Veg-friendly
Bar None
Credit cards Visa, MC
Reservations Not accepted

Uptown Central
1626 McCullough Ave.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 277-1899
Saigon Express
Look for the blue beacon—but don’t expect illuminating Vietnamese cuisine

“For the downtown crowd, Saigon Express is pretty much the lone Vietnamese option,” declares one panelist. “Rarely is there anything on the menu that [totally] lets you down. But, for example, the French iced coffee: it’s made with cheap instant coffee instead of fresh grounds, with the metal percolator that goes right over the glass allowing you to watch the coffee drip by drip descend into the condensed milk. Is this a big deal? Perhaps not, but I feel like the restaurant isn’t trying as hard as they used to. I don’t sense the love in the food that was there when the father/patriarch was in better health and more in charge of things.”

We agree. The lunch specials are not especially, and the bready French sandwiches require jolts of Sriracha. There are better places for classic pho. But the bun bowls do merit a detour. Skewered shrimp and pork are among the toppings that can grace the tangle of rice noodles.

And there is something perversely hypnotic about the actual place: the intense blue color that pervades Saigon Express’ interior creeps out to the exterior, creating a cool kind of beacon in its transitional neighborhood. Maybe it’s French blue…

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