The Hatter’s a hangout for Southtown sorts and folks from the historic King William ‘hood—plus artists, attorneys, and other reprobates. Lines are likely at high noon. There are daily specials, but the fare has otherwise become somewhat static; it smacks of haute tea room (tea parties for two or more include the expected sandwich selection) with a few regional and left-leaning cues.

An over-accessorized grilled hummus sandwich tosses artichokes, tomatoes, mushrooms, and more into the mix but does taste good regardless. There’s also a lot going on with a rainbow-coalition tamal salad with multi-colored greens, pickled onion, and feta. Chipotle mayo looms large in both. More conventional is a tuna salad sandwich on thick whole wheat that limits itself to tomato, avocado, and sprouts as enhancements—plus an almost undetectable smoked jalapeño component.

Even at peak times service is reasonably swift, especially if an appetizer order has been placed at the counter. The odd but oddly effective bacon-wrapped artichoke heart “lolli-pops” can be recommended; the “Very Garlicky Hummus” is overpriced and less rewarding as an app. Soups and sides are serviceable, but desserts tend to overdeliver: the fudge pecan pie is worth keeping an important date with the Hatter.