Jarro is a great jumping-off point for the taco-truck uninitiated. For one thing, you won’t be faced with anything challenging like lengua or tripe, and if you chicken out (or the weather sucks), you can head inside to the café it opened. It’s a little pricier in there, but it’s also air conditioned, and the Beatles posters and mustard-and-ketchup-colored walls are cheery. There’s also an expanded menu inside, including slightly mushy tortas, your average enchiladas and quesadillas, and much more importantly, chilaquiles con carne asada. The tortilla strips stay crisp even under all the fresh crema and cheese, and get a bang from salsa verde and thinly sliced grilled steak. Cheesy creamy meaty spicy crispy goodness.

On the taco front, both in the truck and the café, you can’t go wrong with slow-roasted pork cochinita pibil tacos with pickled oregano-scented onions. Bistec is grilled to tender sirloiny bliss. Al pastor has a great spicy-pineappley contrast, the pork slightly crispy. While the tacos are good, they’re mostly a vehicle for six different homemade salsas: a roasted tomatillo salsa verde with nuclear-hot serranos; a dense, smoky, brick-red ancho salsa; chopped and pickled onions with white-hot heat lurking within; for the masochistic, there’s a lurid green killer and a fiery orange salsa, both of which hurt so good.