Fearless Critic
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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Food
8.8
Feel
5.0
Price
$20
Virgie’s
Expletive-inducing barbecue at Houston’s most Hill Country-esque smokehouse
Barbecue
Counter service

Hours
Wed–Sat 11:00am–6:30pm

Bar None
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx

www.virgiesbbq.com

Northwest Houston
5535 North Gessner Rd.
Houston, TX
(713) 466-6525

Houston’s got a wide array of cuisines to choose from, and many are done extremely well. But barbecue has remained a divisive issue—citing Houston’s clean-air laws (we have those?), purists insist smoked meats can never be as good here as in the Hill Country; loyalists, on the other hand, refuse…

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