Beware: Luling City Market in Houston and the venerable establishment known simply as “City Market” (in Luling, TX) are not actually related. If there’s one thing we’ve learned in this business, it’s that most people just don’t give a damn about details like this—but they will give a damn about the only-slightly-above-average barbecue here.

You’ll find this impostor in a strip center off Richmond near 610. Despite its attempt to distinguish itself with claims to emulate the Hill Country, the atmosphere seems pretty standard. Luling City Market serves German-style barbecue, which relies on lots of smoke, low temperatures, and zero sauce on the meat. But the results here are too dry and low on flavor. Even a liberal dousing of peppery, vinegary barbecue sauce cannot rescue the parched hunks of brisket. Ribs, too, are overcooked, rendering what little meat there is dry and useless, and the good spice rub does little to amend this. Sausage is hit-or-miss. Opt instead for the turkey, which retains its moisture and flavor despite the pit’s best attempts to shake it out. We do like the potato salad, a strongly mustardy version of the classic.

We don’t get why City Market in Luling’s not down here with WTF faces, demanding a public cook-off to settle the score.