Houston’s best-kept secret is ECK Bakery’s Chinese egg custard tart, or dan tat (“dan ta” in Mandarin). They’re usually unspectacular on the dessert carts at dim sum, but ECK stands for “Egg Custard King,” so if you’re going to judge its merits anywhere, let it be here.

Located in an otherwise deserted shopping center not too far from Bellaire, little about this pristine spot says “bakery,” except for the display cases. The walls are decorated with T-shirts and useless knick-knacks that you might haphazardly buy on New York’s Canal Street, and shelves stock baking items of indeterminate use. Even other baked goods seem like part of the irrelevant background: raisin bread is plump and fluffy, but seems to be missing its crucial raisins; small, mochi-like pastries covered in shredded coconut, called lo mai chi, are quite good (especially mango, when in season). There are tasty Chinese versions of sausage-stuffed kolaches—but these things are mere distractions. At all times of day, tarts are coming out of the oven and being snatched up by crazed customers. And it’s no wonder: the crust flakes at the slightest nudge of the tongue, and the filling is rich while not heavy, sweet without being overbearing. For those freaks who hate guilty pleasures (and, okay, cholesterol), they have a yolk-less custard that’s almost as good...almost.