Thai Spice has nine restaurants, each with a distinct feel tailored to its particular clientele. Thai Spice Express on Bellaire near Gessner seems to be the one most frequented by Thais, and the one with the most authentic menu. If we were rating this location separately, it might be in the top three Thai restaurants in town.

If you go there, stray from the usual curries and satays to try the mussels and Thai fried rice; the latter incorporates chunks of lime, peel and all, to bring pops of freshness to the heat. Red curry with chicken and tons of chilies is spicy, sweet, and flavorful. Shrimp are tempura-fried with the shells and heads still on, but they’re often served too cold. Pad ka praw is stir-fried with chili and basil, a fiery yet mellow meal. Som tam (green papaya salad) and spicy bamboo salad are ways to eat light and stay refreshed.

All locations boast contemporary colors and lighting that make them look like showrooms at a fast-Asian restaurant expo. Still, they deliver consistently good food with the right balance between heat and other flavors, unlike the overly sweet concoctions that other, more Americanized restaurants provide—but Thai Gourmet’s got ’em beat in the heat category. Some locations have buffets (where quality obviously suffers somewhat), and most offer weekly discounts and kid specials.