Tony’s décor is best described as “tacky modern.” Think multi-colored pendant lamps; flowing waterfalls; curvy ceiling panels with recessed lighting; and, most amusingly, a giant, mechanized menu scroll that’s constantly cycling through the various menu items, with spectacularly unattractive photos. It’s little touches like these that make the place feel appropriate for neither an elaborate dinner nor a light, relaxing lunch.

Still, certain parts of the menu are more authentic than most. It’s one of the best som tam in town, that classic, refreshing green-papaya salad that’s a staple all over Thailand. Here, the salad’s laced with plenty of hot chili and the trademark tang of fermented shrimp. Lime, peanuts, and underripe tomato slices—the only inauthentic touch—complete the picture.

Tom yum goong soup’s appropriately salty and spicy, with fresh shrimp—even if it is missing the aromatic oomph of kaffir lime leaves. Seafood mains are the way to go, especially the live Dungeness crab. Various versions of crispy whole fish can be successful, and sautéed catfish in chili sauce is another safe bet; the flavor’s there, even if the deep-fried fish texture is unremarkable.

Pay no attention to the awful gas-station wines in the ultra-modern wine racks, nor to the perfunctory sushi; there’s too much authentic Thai scattered on this menu for that nonsense.