Nam Gang is best on weekdays when it’s slower and you can get better service; during those calmer times, the staff is more than happy to help you cook your well-marinated meats at your table.

In fact, on those nights, there’s something inherently homey about it, like you just walked into your aunt’s house, where the air is filled with cooking smells, and you’re fussed over with cheek pinching and comments about how skinny you’ve become. When they’re swamped (usually on weekends), all that goes out the window and it becomes everyone for themselves.

While anything that’s been soaked in soy, sugar, and spice probably won’t taste bad, there’s something about Nam Gang’s galbi (beef shortribs) and bulgogi (ribeye) that has that extra kick. Flavor penetrates every protein cell and sinew of the beef, putting the intensity of Nam Gang’s Korean barbecue a notch above the rest. It also uses heated pieces of charcoal in a town where gas grills are almost exclusive. It’s not all roses: kimchi pancakes are flimsy, and that quality meat costs a little more than you’re used to. But much of the banchan is better and spicier than elsewhere. Soju and Hite beer will help quell the fire (and up your already voluminous tab, so be careful).