The specialty here’s apparent in the name: piping-hot bowls of traditional Korean tofu stews, a perfect match for the many rainy days in Houston.

The interior’s prettier and more modern than usual, if a little bit silly: ever-changing colored lights lining the walls and cheesy pictures of Korean pop star Rain plastered everywhere. But who doesn’t love a little giggle while they slurp? The stew comes in different varieties—with meat, seafood, kimchi, or a combination of all three—and in varying amounts of spiciness. The tofu is always the star, though, silky and subtle, softening the caustic spices.

As successful as the specialty tofu is, Tofu Village should stop while it’s ahead, because some of the other Korean dishes suffer horribly, like the rendition of the Korean seafood pancake, pajeon—it’s flimsy and filled with seafood that doesn’t taste the freshest. And then there’s Korean barbecue, flavorful, but greasy and totally overcooked. Jap chae noodles are overwhelmed with sauce, but are toothsome. Regardless, it’s a totally generous meal for little lucre, as everything comes with a fried whole sardine, copious and delicious banchan, and a little iceberg salad for good measure. Just remember, if you want the best of Tofu Village, go tofu stew.