We’d set the bar awfully low for this one. At first glance, it’s a bunch of white Rasta kids who set up shop outside their favorite head shop. We’d expected a half-assed moneymaking venture of the sort we’d have come up with (not too long ago) while scraping the carpet for dropped bits of schwag. But no, the owner’s a young guy who lived in Jamaica for five years and fell in love with West Indian cuisine. What’s more, he can actually cook the stuff quite well, given the constraints of the trailer kitchen. And he’s just nice as the dickens.
Everything here is super healthy, or at least feels that way: jerk chicken breast or tofu, curry, plantains, and rice. The chicken is grilled to juicy moistness, and the jerk spice is deep, earthy, and lingering. It also comes as a salad with avocado, tomato, and deep-green lettuce. There are occasionally corn-y johnnycakes, but we’d love to see more of the breadth that this cuisine—a fascinating colonial tapestry of African, British, Chinese, and Indian threads—is capable of. Salt cod with ackee would rule, but ackee, when cooked improperly, will cause vomiting sickness. Not irie. For now, content yourself with listening to live reggae by the lake, or in domino nights among your bredren and sistren.
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