The slightly more casual end of the Second/Congress one-floor spectrum feels as downtown-swanky as the highrise it inhabits. It’s stylishly comfortable, like the Emeco aluminum chairs that help distinguish a lighter mood (and tab) than the more posh Congress down the hall. There are great street views from huge windows; better, from the upstairs nicer-Astroturfed patio on inimitable Austin spring evenings. The beverage program is excellent—small-batch liquors, artful and precise cocktails, and personality-driven wines at reasonable mark-ups—and is reason enough to come.

The food isn’t so much molecular-gastronomy-wow as it is playfully baroque takes on the familiar, like soulful oxtail melted into a confit and served with a luxurious burrata. Buffalo fried pickles transcend the gimmicky with a clear pepper sauce—as opposed to the neon-red of wing platters—and the nipping purity of gorgonzola cream. Flavors can be muted in larger plates: collards with more metallic tang would add intrigue to pork shoulder with creamy-dreamy grits; rabbit confit comes with an evasive fennel slaw whose delightful dill notes are mumbled a bit. Desserts are restrained in a better sense, like a naturally sweet pumpkin molten cake with dulce de leche ice cream; but you’re just as well served by the cheese plate and a terrific digestif. Choices, choices. Luckily, you can afford to return.