The hand-scribbled font on Antonelli’s sign is endowed with all the sincerity and craftiness emblematic of the food-obsessed generation. This young couple’s eagerness to please and geeky cheese expertise amounts to some very exciting prospects for their neighbors. The ever-growing selection includes some harder-to-find cheeses from abroad, but mostly focuses on excellent, obscure American farmsteads. You can request certain cheeses the shop may not carry yet, and the staff will let you taste anything in the case. More accurately, they will encourage you, handing over a sliver of something delicious while telling you how it was made and by whom. Look to the chalkboard for a demystifying scale of lactose-intolerant-friendly cheeses. It’s precisely these kinds of educational, horizon-broadening experiences that Austin is hungering for.

Refreshingly, cheese here is correctly wrapped (as opposed to some larger markets, which suffocate it or cut from older wheels). But man cannot live by cheese alone, and so there is also a good little selection of olives and charcuterie, and an astute, well-edited array of wines and beers. They’ll help you assemble an impressive cheese plate for a party and equip you with all the information you’ll need to look like the Big Cheese. You might be willing to pay a lot of money for that, but you won’t have to.