The fact that Pflugerville—with its lolling strip malls and meanderings of concrete—is where you can find the best Ethiopian in the area is, well, surprising. The tiny inside is tastefully done in warm earth tones, and the walls are hung with African art. Each of the dozen or so tables hosts a beautiful messob basket used in traditional Ethiopian dining.

Speaking of the owner, she’s a whirlwind, serving as head chef, waitress, and all-around maître d’. She’ll walk you through the ins and outs of Ethiopian-style dining, if you are new to it. Do bring at least one person and order the “Ultimate Combo,” a vegetarian sampling. Yemisir wot (spicy red lentils) and gomen (slightly vinegary collard greens) are standouts. The more variety the better, though, as the dishes complement each other with a range of sweet, hot, sour, and bitter. Gather everything in spongy, citrusy injera bread.

As for meat, don’t miss kitfo, a tartare best served raw, made by warming small cubes of top round in a clarified butter spiced with African birdeye chilies, black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, cumin, and ginger. The result is lustrous beef that dissolves in your mouth. Lamb tibs are also wonderful, with just the lightest sear on the outsides.

Finish up with an Ethiopian coffee ceremony; it’s roasted in-house, and the strong brew is served out of clay pots with burning incense. That’s so Pflugerville.