This exposed-bricked old building is an appropriate setting for a throwback concept; in this case, an absinthe-obsessed French bistro. Still, it’s less Lapin Agile than Warehouse District—black chandeliers hang over the long bar, which, with its library ladders, feels like a late-19th-century saloon mated with a teenage goth’s fantasy apothecary. Vested bartenders take their craft seriously: muddling, frothing, and sweetness levels are much better than they’ve been before—still, they have to work against demands for fruity vodka ‘tinis, given the neighborhood, especially when The Spazmatics play in the courtyard below.

Absinthes include the terrific American Saint George, as well as Swiss and French bottles, and, of course, Pernod. The more haphazardly chosen wine list’s a minefield—you might luck out in the French bottles if you know your producers. The food has improved considerably as of late; local and seasonal ingredients now inform the menu, as is reflected in the sky-high prices—but you can eat better like-minded food for less. What’s more, we’ve repeatedly found that the staff is just not that into you, or your experience. Salads do taste garden-fresh and are lightly dressed; meats come properly grilled; and several small plates, like moules frites and charcuterie, are delicious. But eating this good isn’t rare in Austin, and for prices this high, our abusers had better be wearing leather.