For atmosphere, you almost can’t beat this respectfully modernized 1840s home, set back from the road and with an incredible view of the river and city skyline; the backyard is a Gatsby-esque fête, with twinkling lights and outdoor tables. Inside, Paggi House is almost too dark. On quieter nights, there’s definitely a special-occasion feeling inherent in the design, but awkward service tends to dampen it. The bar sports some small-batch spirits, fresh juices, and house-made ingredients; its cocktail program has dipped in execution (perhaps most noticeable to those following the careers of certain bartenders). The wine program—although scarce in under-$50 bottles—is one of the city’s best, from the rare and prestigious (’95 white Burgundies, multiple white Châteauneuf-du-Papes, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) to several grower Champagnes to small-production bottles favored by sommeliers.

Execution is a bit of a hit-or-miss prospect here; too much to recommend heartily any main dishes. We prefer to think of Paggi House as a place to find a terrific, even life-changing bottle of wine, and then taste how it plays with the various flavors of small plates: a good terrine of foie gras with seasonal fruit confit and a touch of truffle; tender, well-balanced braised pork belly with toothsome clams; quail with a creamy mushroom risotto that could be tedious if in a larger portion. And without that stunning view.