Several dozen beers on tap, served at proper temperatures in their correct glassware. Cheap, small-production wines are available by the glass, but the bottle selection is fantastic—look to these instead. Live music. Movie nights. Tastings. A calendar of beers being aged in the cellar and their release dates. Shelves stocked with local goods, from Slow Burn salsas to Elgin sausage to handmade soap and candles. A dining area that feels like a cross between Moroccan café and hippie living room. (Outside, it can get a bit ugly and stinky.) What could happen here that would possibly titillate South Austin sensibilities any more?

Ah, yes. Killer grub. This Indo-Tex crossover is sheer genius: tender roast beef with pepper chutney and Gorgonzola is a blissful zoetrope of salty, spicy, sweet, and sour. Lamb meatballs are achingly delicious. Get these stuffed in doughy, ghee-slicked naan as a sandwich, or over basmati rice in a bowl. Beefy beer chili is a favorite; Bourbon-butter chicken, on its best days, is comparatively mild and a little dry. Veggie dishes like chana dal with a seasonal squash can be undersalted. Breakfast “panaani” are served until 2pm (do they know their customer base or what?) and are filled with eggs, cheese, a chutney, and the option of bacon. Oh, and did we mention the meat, eggs, and produce all come from local farms? In fact, we’d argue that this is the most zealously Pollan-esque kitchen in town.