Fredericksburg, in the heart of Texas wine and peach country, is home to a threatened German culture. Biergartens and German restaurants are legion on the Hauptstraße, Fredericksburg’s main street. Der Lindenbaum is the best of them. Look for the old limestone building with a German flag hanging outside. Inside, it’s cozy and overdressed, just like oma’s house.

There’s a bevy of German beers, but stick to what’s on tap, as bottled beer gets skunky after sitting there for a while—definitely pass on the Freon-smelling frozen glasses. Service comes from older, thickly accented women who won’t fawn over you, but will make sure you are well fed.

We love the schnitzels—particularly the Weiner and jaeger—whose breading is fried ideally crisp. Give it a lemon squirt and eat fast, before it gets soggy. Curried chicken is surprisingly good, its curry mild and satisfying, the meat moist. But do not miss the bratwurst sampler, a trio of snapping, juicy links served with caraway-freckled sauerkraut and German potato salad of the sweeter, creamier variety.

Pork chops taste good but can be dry, and pork in a mustard-wine sauce is rather bland and gummy. But Serbian bean soup is a terrific starter, sour and hearty, and incredibly comforting. Schnell to Fredericksburg, where your German mama is waiting with a nice, warm plate of apple strudel for you.