Sandra Bullock’s passion for restoring early-20th-century buildings provides sophisticated appeal for the Warehouse area’s otherwise empty flashiness. The exposed bricks, oil lanterns, wood beams, and low ceilings of Bess Bistro create an ideal tavern-like feel, while intimate round banquettes, chandelier-lit and divided by white curtains, are très French brasserie. The result is an unusual balance: warm and comfortable enough to while away an afternoon at the beautiful bar, refined enough for a business meeting, fun enough for a date, and amusing for an out-of-towner.

The menu, fittingly, is based on the comfort foods of the Western world, and changes its wardrobe from time to time, incorporating some exotic flair that mostly works. A recent shepherd’s pie, with a wonderfully lamb-y stew replacing the traditional ground beef and cheddar forming the crust, has been the best version Bess had done so far; plump mussels come in hearty, delicious broths; fried green tomatoes get the Sriracha treatment (is this replacing ketchup as America's favorite condiment?); and mac (orzo) and cheese is gussied up but not too molested by truffle.

Bess’s competent wine list allows indie darling character-driven bottles to share the stage with overrated celebrities. We like brunch in the pretty courtyard with favorites like challah French toast and a croque monsieur. Bess never offends, sometimes inspires, and always satisfies her role. Sound like anyone else you know?