Why is it that you can find an Irish pub in practically every city in the world? These days, in America, it’s starting to feel like you can even find a Fadó in every city. This chain, with locations from Seattle to St. Louis, clearly has a firm grasp on what it is that makes Irish pubs such nice places in which to spend an evening.

The food easily lives up to its Irish-pub-fare pretensions. It’s overpriced, but we’ve been consistently happy with it. We especially like the fish and chips, with their delicate batter. Chicken pot pie, too, is a warm winner, with a delicate crust and none of the gelatinous goo that so often sinks the dish. The Irish breakfast is a good order, with baked beans, sunny eggs that are usually nicely runny, sausage that is appropriately bready yet still well seasoned, a couple of rashers of Irish bacon, fried tomatoes, and some sweet brown bread to mop up leftovers. Corned beef is slow-cooked on the premises, and don’t miss the delightful brown-bread ice cream for dessert.

Sure, there are the requisite annoying affectations of most things “Irish” on this side of the pond: the Guinness paraphernalia, the display cases of “Joyce’s Dublin” artifacts; and for those inspired by this spirit, some rather unforgivable drawers labeled “writing paper” and “quills and nibs” (fortunately empty). Musicians perform the obligatory U2 songs. Somewhat inexplicably, the cozy interior is dotted with pillars that look like tree trunks.

But there is a lot about the pub that feels genuine. It regularly shows live footy without a cover. The room is comfortable, and there is a warm patina to all surfaces, especially the low, wood ceilings. And trivia, as if there’s an understanding between Mother Egan’s and Fadó, is hosted on Monday nights here, so you don’t have to miss the Tuesday one over there. Hey, there are those people...

Service is welcoming and chatty, with a wicked Irish warmth well expressed on the menu:

May you have food and raiment.

A soft pillow for your head.

May you be forty years in heaven,

Before the devil knows you’re dead.