We continue to find Wink a frustrating restaurant to review. Recent visits have led us to the conclusion, once again, that some dishes are good, but others are especially disappointing for the price and hubbub. What’s more, the mechanics seem to be flagging more and more each year—show up on time for a reservation, and you might be ushered off to the wine bar for another 45 minutes. Sure, there’s a free glass of wine in it for you, but when you’re dropping more than $100 a head on dinner, it leaves a lingering sour taste in the mouth.

When Wink first hit the Austin scene, it was a breakthrough: the chef-driven menu changed constantly; ingredients were sometimes local and always fresh; and recipes were sophisticated and well conceived. But those things are no longer unique in Austin, and Wink is now overshadowed by better kitchens. The texture of gnocchi has varied wildly; confit has come inedibly salty. Although fish is invariably tender and moist, red meats can come cooked above temperature. What generally results is more of a “yeah, not bad” than an “oh my God.” And in this price range, you’re hoping for the latter; the price-to-portion ratio is so low that people often end up spending considerably more than they anticipate after a first glance at the menu, which is misleading because of the small portion sizes. Three or four savory courses per person is within the normal range, and some dishes are as high as $30; you can do the math.

The small, simply appointed strip-mall space is tucked improbably behind a sporting goods store and adjacent a dry cleaner. Lighting is calm and pleasant, and the restaurant’s continued popularity usually translates to a lively buzz. The adjacent Wink Wine Bar, which offers the same menu (plus some small plates until midnight), is a better bet, although it too is fun but frustrating—beginning with the wine list, whose geographical diversity is cancelled out by the skew toward once-fashionable, in-your-face wines at heavy markups.

Stopping by the wine bar for dessert and a glass of Port or Sauternes isn’t a bad idea: we’ve really enjoyed lemon meringue, crème brûlée, and el rey chocolate cake. And service is often excellent, once you are seated, managing an exemplary balance between efficient and non-intrusive. Still, at these prices, perhaps the kitchen needs to renew its vows to the public.

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