While Wink’s initial claims to fame—a chic, exclusive-feeling small room; fine dining from a changing menu of local ingredients—are no longer unique in Austin, it continues to be a go-to date place. We love its coziness and mood lighting, and the impeccable service from longtime professionals. The adjoining no-reservations wine bar is a fun, casual space where you can order the regular menu, as well as some extras. While the wine list is geographically diverse, its selection of producers seems strangely haphazard, as if no familiarity or particular palate drives it. There’s a more definitive philosophy in the kitchen, which rolls out the sort of “nouvelle rustique” dishes that have come to characterize upmarket dining in Austin: foie gras, seared scallops, duck breast, and lamb chops, paired with combinations of arugula, wild mushrooms, root vegetables, seasonal fruit compote, and so forth.

Usually, the execution is fine; but seldom is it inspiring, and oversalting has been enough of a problem, as has overcooking, to keep it beneath the top ten of its genre. We’d do the 5-course tasting—it’s a good bargain and you’re more likely to get what the kitchen thinks is best that night; also, its pairings make use of the few personality-driven and balanced wines here, and the mark-up’s a bit better than it is by the bottle. In its best light, Wink’s still a worthwhile, romantic classic.