Saints fans: this is it—where you should watch the game. Period. The cheers of “Who dat?” echo for blocks from the creekside patio, which is impressively outfitted with several sharp big-screen TVs. Of course, Tigers and ’Horns games are also great here, and that tree-shaded deck overlooks the park, making it one of the most pleasant springtime Sundays. $4.50 Bloody Marys certainly don’t hurt; there are a couple of Louisiana Abitas in bottle, but most tables sport pitchers of Shiner.
There are dinner specials like an all-you-can-eat catfish buffet, the “biggest smoked pork chop in Texas,” (maybe, but not the best), and crawfish boils in season. Gumbo is made with a proper dark roux, but not nearly enough filé; étouffée’s a bit watery and bland—add Louisiana Hot Sauce, and it’s at least interesting. Burgers are fine, but the patties are dull and on the dry side, and crinkle-cut fries always seem suspiciously reconstituted. Likewise, po’ boys don’t deliver enough to justify their high price; if you must, shrimp’s better than out-of-season chewy crawfish, or dry roast beef (NOLA’s best roast beef po’ boys drip with salty gravy). What does stand out here is chicken-fried chicken, which is crunchy and grease free, moist on the inside, with peppery cream gravy. After all, you’ve gotta eat something to keep your football-watching strength up.
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