It’s hard not to be skeptical of the prospect of upscale Hawaiian fusion food from an Iron Chef TV star, Roy Yamaguchi, whose gaudy dining chain has dubbed itself an “empire” on the website. And perhaps now, with locations in more than 10 states, that’s a fair moniker. Once you wade through all the self-congratulatory rhetoric, there is some substance behind this well-lit, casually romantic space with an open kitchen, all plopped right in the middle of the downtown scene.

The menu here changes frequently to reflect seasonality, and diners are promised only the freshest in fish and produce. Roy also happens to be the king of adjectives; before enjoying the cuisine you’ll have to translate the irritatingly pompous menu into English. “Yellow Fin Ahi Poketini” is really just a tuna poke (like a tartare) in a martini glass, with cubes of soft, fresh raw fish served in a fusion bath that integrates yuzu soy sauce, wasabi aïoli, flying fish roe, and truffle oil. It’s good. Rolls’ names are equally cryptic: “Lahaina ‘Wet’ Roll” and “Sunrise at Haleakala” give us no indication of what’s in these guys—but then again, are the names of sushi rolls ever particularly illustrative? Lobster potstickers—no confusion there—have never been thrilling but have recently come dry and overly fried, with a bland butter sauce. Tiger shrimp wrapped in prosciutto come with a goat-cheese polenta that overpowers the little guys.

Less convincing are the pricey main courses, whose flowery descriptions are often unrelated to the tastes themselves. We’ve had different preparations of short ribs, and we’ve consistently liked the way they’ve been cooked. Most recently they’ve come simply braised with almost translucent pearl onions and mashed potatoes. Greens and baby squash have arrived underseasoned and completely mismatched with Roy’s bold flavors, and identical veggies often come with different dishes—an embarrassingly unsophisticated move for such an expensive restaurant. Worse, same or similar sauces dress everything, regardless of protein.

Aside from a tiny, well-edited sake list, the wine program emptily boasts of world-class greatness, citing Robert Parker’s unabashed love and featuring several bottles made by celebrity producers especially for Roy’s. But it’s a lazy list, with few befitting varietals by good producers, and even more ill-matched bottles with high price tags. When you’re paying a $75-a-head tribute to Emperor Roy, you should expect more than what this outpost of his kingdom is currently providing.