Eastside Café has long drawn admirers (mostly of the more distinguished set) with its rambling 1920s house and large garden from which the kitchen culls its vegetables. Each of the rooms has only a few tables, so it feels intimate, and it’s especially romantic at dinnertime; the garden room, however, aims for “atrium” but winds up hitting “elementary school portable classroom.”

Although it’s one of Austin’s pioneers in the farm-to-table movement, Eastside just can’t seem to execute at the level of the whippersnappers who’ve taken up the cause. We find the complimentary cornbread flecked with mild chiles a dry, uninteresting way to fill up. French fries have their flavorful skins still on, and good seasoning; green salads are better than most, owing to the freshness of the vegetables. But then there’s a pervasive blandness, overcooked burgers, and recipes that are ill-inspired from the start (ravioli with basil, almonds, and pecans tastes exactly like it sounds). Some brunch items are better, like garlic cheese grits that are fluffy and cheesy; but wheat French toast lacks egginess, and meek, underspiced migas are tedious.

There are more delicious and affordable options on this mostly biodynamic and/or organic wine list than one normally sees at long-established Austin restaurants. Desserts also buoy the otherwise mediocre meal. Rich but not oversweetened buttermilk chess pie with sugared strawberries is a worthwhile treat.