Serafina has a great spot in Eastlake. Park a few blocks away and watch the sun set over the hills and glisten on Lake Union while you walk to the restaurant—this might be the best part of your night.

At Serafina, disappointment snowballs: every person at the table will have some small complaint—the ravioli is ho-hum, the lamb is dry—that, when compiled, seem to add up to an irredeemably awful meal. Some of the food is more competent, but the complaints are numerous enough, and the prices high enough, that after a few tries, most of us aren’t interested in going back.

So why bother, when Spinasse, Cantinetta, and Tavolàta beckon? There’s the space, which despite a kind of fake Tuscan feel (lots of terra cotta accents), is comfortable and blandly sophisticated and includes a nice tree-filled patio. There’s a good selection of Italian wines plus a decent beer list and good cocktails. There are also live music performances Friday through Sunday and on the occasional weekday, which can obliterate conversation. So if don’t want cabaret-style jazz vocals or piano duos booming behind you while you eat, pick an off night for your visit.