Salumi was started by Armandino Batali, father of the famous Mario. The former ran the place up until his recent retirement; it’s still a family affair, with Armandino’s daughter Gina Batali running the show now.

You’ll see Salumi’s meats on menus all over town—on charcuterie plates, in sandwiches, or tucked into pasta. For this reason, you don’t actually have to visit Salumi to experience it, but the tiny storefront performs three important functions. First of all, it’s a retail shop where you can purchase a full range of products, not all of which are available in gourmet markets. Secondly, it’s a source for a hearty, salty sandwich. Lastly, it has a back room for private lunches (up to 10 people; about $45 per person).

A private, hours-long lunch with multiple courses, is a must if you want to experience Salumi beyond nibbling on the famous lamb sausage or mole salami (with cinnamon, chocolate, ancho, and chipotle). From pastas with shreds of the best cured meats; to old-fashioned dishes like bollito misto, these lunches aren’t like hearty home-cooked meals—they are that.

The narrow main room has some communal seating, and jockeying for a spot to enjoy a sandwich or the awesome hot meat plate (meatballs, grilled lamb, peppers, porchetta) can be fun, as Salumi is the sort of place where people strike up conversations.