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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Seattle
Food
Feel
Price
8.0
7.0
$50
Italian
Casual restaurant

Hours
Tue 5:00pm–9:00pm
Wed 5:00pm–10:00pm
Thu 5:00pm–9:00pm
Fri–Sat 5:00pm–10:00pm

Features Date-friendly, good wines, kid-friendly, veg-friendly
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC
Reservations Accepted

Website

Columbia City
4857 Rainier Ave. S.
Seattle, WA
(206) 723-2192
La Medusa
A bright spot in the growing Columbia City dining scene

Well worth the light-rail trip to Columbia City, La Medusa offers the usual locally sourced seasonal fare with an inspired Sicilian spin. (Like Café Juanita, this is a restaurant that sources everything locally, except when they’re importing ingredients from Italy.)

Cod fritters are salty, creamy nuggets encased in a shaggy yet perfectly crisp batter, fried just so, and nestled in a ramekin atop a puddle of garlicky and fresh-tasting marinara. The acciuga pizza, with caciocavallo cheese and white anchovies, also comes with a couple of eggs, sunny side up and blinking at you coquettishly. “Grandma’s Greens” are topped with raisins, olives and pine nuts; this might be the most delicious way to eat kale that doesn’t involve the use of vast amounts of bacon. A tender, beefy grilled sirloin comes in a demi-glace with roasted potatoes, parsnips, carrots, and sunchoke, the earthy tang of which lends a novel layer of flavor to the usual root vegetable menagerie.

The wine list is an homage to every great wine-producing area of Italy and has many affordable bottles, including the very quaffable house red.

This is a casual, café-tables-and-chalkboard-menus kind of place, which makes the prices seem a bit high. But we guess that La Medusa hits its inclusivity quota in other ways. The crowd often skews older, but the staff is extremely accommodating of kids.

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