Once upon a time, there were no pho shops in Seattle. When Pho Bac opened its purple doors decades ago, it drew in pioneering spirits who had never heard of the now-ubiquitous cheap lunch and cold remedy. Today Pho Bac could hardly have any more competition (unless it were a Thai restaurant, perhaps), and it’s become its own mini-chain.

But the flagship shack is a piece of Seattle history, and the pho being served there is still way above average. Pho Bac’s broth has some nice umami flavor, and the restaurant also seems to be a bit choosier than the other cheap spots about all the ingredients that go into the broth. Tendon, tripe, beef brisket, and meatballs are all tender, and you can get them all in one bowl.

The other branches serve the same menu in pleasantly nondescript digs—if the Jackson Street location skeeves you out, the nicest branch is the one on 7th in the heart of the I.D.