We’re not sure what it says about Seattle that this is the first Fearless Critic book with two restaurants in a single city beginning with the words “I Love.” It would be easier to recommend I Love Sushi for its sushi if it weren’t so pricey, but everything from the bento to the rolls is pushing ultralounge prices. Anytime outside of happy hour, those seeking sashimi and nigiri or only very simple rolls will find better value elsewhere, or at least better fish for the money.

But happy hour is a steal, with a good portion of sashimi and rolls available. I Love Sushi also does a pretty good job with fancier rolls, which are not that much more expensive than at any other restaurant. There are the usual overstuffed tempura creatures and dragon rolls plus a few more fusiony ones employing tropical fruits. Udon and cooked appetizers like calamari are consistently decent and more reasonably priced.

I Love Sushi has a neat, albeit inconvenient, location on Lake Union. Although we prefer to eat our sushi in a more temperature-controlled environment than a deck on a warm summer day, the glimpses of the lake and the yachts moored right outside the restaurant pair just fine with draft beers.