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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Seattle
Food
Feel
Price
9.0
8.0
$60
Modern
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Mon–Thu 6:00am–2:00pm
Mon–Thu 5:00pm–9:00pm
Fri–Sat 6:00am–2:00pm
Fri–Sat 5:00pm–10:00pm
Sun 6:00am–2:00pm
Sun 4:00pm–9:00pm

Features Date-friendly, good wines, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

Website

Eastside
220 Kirkland Ave.
Kirkland, WA
(425) 284-5900
Trellis
This is how you do farm-to-table—hotel or no hotel

Trellis is as farm-to-table as it gets: Chef Brian Scheehser’s menu is dictated by what he harvests from his own farm, which is just a few miles from the restaurant. What his own farm doesn’t provide, Scheehser gets from other local purveyors.

The chef has a light hand even with typically heavy dishes: veal osso buco is brightened by charred tomatoes. The lobster jus accompanying a piece of seared sea bass is delicate enough to be sipped like soup. Lamb carpaccio is a must to start out the meal, and any simple salad is likely to have been picked only a few hours before it ended up on your plate; its presentation is beautiful, with vibrant vegetables giving dishes the color usually provided by squirts of superfluous neon-colored sauces—we’ve never seen grilled onions look so good on their own.

Trellis’s location in the Heathman is a tad regrettable. Yes, it means you have the option of retiring to a comfy room when you’re done feasting. But no matter how hard they try, hotel restaurants can’t fully rid themselves of the hotel taint. Although Trellis does a good job of evoking thoughts of the European countryside with its different colored and textured woods and rustic bouquets, it still has a blandly upscale patina, which seems out of place next to food that’s so deeply connected to the earth.

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