Trellis is as farm-to-table as it gets: Chef Brian Scheehser’s menu is dictated by what he harvests from his own farm, which is just a few miles from the restaurant. What his own farm doesn’t provide, Scheehser gets from other local purveyors.

The chef has a light hand even with typically heavy dishes: veal osso buco is brightened by charred tomatoes. The lobster jus accompanying a piece of seared sea bass is delicate enough to be sipped like soup. Lamb carpaccio is a must to start out the meal, and any simple salad is likely to have been picked only a few hours before it ended up on your plate; its presentation is beautiful, with vibrant vegetables giving dishes the color usually provided by squirts of superfluous neon-colored sauces—we’ve never seen grilled onions look so good on their own.

Trellis’s location in the Heathman is a tad regrettable. Yes, it means you have the option of retiring to a comfy room when you’re done feasting. But no matter how hard they try, hotel restaurants can’t fully rid themselves of the hotel taint. Although Trellis does a good job of evoking thoughts of the European countryside with its different colored and textured woods and rustic bouquets, it still has a blandly upscale patina, which seems out of place next to food that’s so deeply connected to the earth.