Eva isn’t really all that hidden—well, it is in residential Green Lake, a neighborhood with a mostly undistinguished scene—but it’s one of those places that so quietly does its own thing that we tend to stop hearing its whispers among the clatter of small plates and vintage martini shakers.

Fairy lights and white tablecloths are all Eva offers in décor, but we wouldn’t want more: the place is classy without losing the simple neighborhood bistro vibe. The menu follows suit; it offers class before flash, with starters like Cabrales flan with pear relish, and mains like goat cheese, arugula, and hazelnut ravioli with a morel mushroom cream sauce. Eva is particularly good with birds, and this is the place to order quail.

From May through October, weekend suppers are three-course set-menus featuring ingredients from the big farmers’ market in the U District. These dinners are very affordable and strike a perfect balance between “aw, shucks” simple (babyback pork ribs with collard greens and strawberry-rhubarb crumble) and the best kind of farmer’s-market ingenuity (sugar snap pea soup with goat cheese gnocchi and chive blossoms).

Eva has one of the best wine lists in the city, with some of the world’s best producers, from Burgundy to Rioja to Tuscany to Nahe, and the waitstaff does an excellent job of suggesting pairings.