We can’t quite understand the amount of hype this place has received. With so many restaurants at the same price point adhering to the local, seasonal mantra, Tilth fails to differentiate itself in the most important way—what actually makes it onto the plate.

Tilth is old enough to have worked out the kinks, yet the food is still hit-or-miss. The miniature duck burgers are sometimes a highlight, sometimes overcooked and dry, sometimes haphazardly seasonal. On the other hand, something as simple as a carrot risotto may, on a particular visit, be jaw-droppingly good. Pork preparations are usually strong (Tilth helped set in motion the pork-belly craze), and vegetarians will be happy, as salads and seasonal vegetable dishes are appropriately fresh and flavorful. Tasting menus show off Tilth’s talent at picking good wine pairings.

In context of the overall dining scene, Tilth is still doing a lot right. When directly compared to some of its newer peers, however, it just doesn’t seem like that big of a deal. One thing it does still have going for it is a very charming space, on the bottom floor of a scallion-green cottage. The acoustics are terrible, so the restaurant can be very noisy when full, but otherwise it’s the epitome of dining in someone’s sunny dream home.