It’s amazing that Tilikum Place has remained under the radar for more than two years—maybe it’s because it reminds Seattleites of Tillicum Village, a touristy Native American “village” reached via Argosy Cruises. But Tilikum Place isn’t peddling salmon bakes; it’s serving satiny house-made pastas, baked beans with pliant pieces of smoky ham hock and maple sweetness, and inspired seafood mains like crisp-skinned halibut piled with chanterelles frizzled in butter and served with “Farrotto” (farro cooked risotto style) in a moat of orange-carrot sauce. Tilikum also serves one of the best brunches in the city; a must-try is the “Dutch Baby,” stuffed with treats like pulled duck and sour cherries.

The designer must be in possession of a bag of magic fairy dust, because someone here actually got the sophisticated-yet-unassuming, vaguely-European-bistro feel just right. A few wooden tables and some banquette seating, a bar that’s basically a big bookcase crammed with bottles, and vintage postcards creating an eye-level wallpaper border on white walls—Tilikum is a simple but supremely enticing space.