It-boys Dana Tough and Brian McCracken have gotten a lot of attention for doing things like deep-frying béarnaise, folding foie gras into ice cream, and perpetuating the trend of turning anything from hard cheeses to oyster mushrooms into foams. Anyone looking for a tiny, affordable, and fairly restrained taste of molecular gastronomy should give Spur a shot.

Even if eating an egg laid by chickens is more appealing to you than eating an “egg” made of cauliflower and squash, Spur will deliver. Most of the menu consists of items that are wholly recognizable. Pork belly sliders are plopped onto toasted mini-brioche buns and served with a touch of a sweet Bourbon sauce. The grass-fed beef burger is just that, although it’s sometimes accompanied by pork belly. Usually, when Spur gets cute, it’s in a way that’s in touch with its customers, like offering a haute breakfast at happy hour in the form of a “chicken-fried egg” (now there’s a new spin on the old philosophical dilemma) served with bacon and gravy.

The intimate space has a subdued Western theme—a large screen that sometimes plays silent black-and-white cowboy movies, a tavern-like setting, a bar focused on whiskey and Bourbon—but also all the qualities of Belltown hot spots. Expect a pretty crowd of late-night revelers.