The hipster hunting-lodge vibe and the long list of beer, Bourbons, and other whiskies make this a solid drinking spot. The reasonably priced, high-quality, gut-busting vittles elevate Smith to neighborhood-favorite status.

Except for a few requisite salads, everything on the menu is rich and heavy. Smith occasionally mixes up the standard burger/mac-and-cheese menu with some interesting meats and game (rabbit and oxtail), but the go-to dishes are, in order: marrow bones; a hanger steak with seasonal vegetables; and fancy grilled-cheese sandwiches. Poutine is good, but poutine usually seems like a better idea than it is later in the evening. If it’s a salty appetite destroyer you want, order the amazing house-made potato chips. One last note on salt: it’s apparently the kitchen’s favorite ingredient. Although most dishes come out fine, the burger, which actually has many loyal fans, could double as a salt lick.

The taxidermy-chic aesthetic isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but Smith is not overbearingly ironic. The pheasants and naïve (read: ugly) portraiture of pioneers and former presidents are mounted high up enough that they’re not too distracting—in candlelight, the nearly monochromatic dark woods and cozy booths along one wall actually make it a nice casual date place. And despite the efforts of fussy children, the place is comfortingly low-key at brunch.